Ponant cruise Venice - Athens

Our colleague Freek Vermeulen took a cruise with Ponant from Venice to Athens. Below you can read his experiences on board, during the beautiful route along the coast of Croatia and Montenegro and through the Corinthian Canal.

TOUGH! The ship's horn blares across the Canale della Guidecca, which separates the island of Guidecca from the rest of the old city of Venice. My journey has begun, and what a beginning! The late afternoon sun sets Venice in a fairy orange glow for a while before darkness sets in. Standing on deck, the city glides past me: I see the classical façade of the Chiesa dei Gesuati, followed a bit further by the beautiful white marble Chiesa della Salute, where I get a glimpse across the water of the Grand Canal into the city centre. Magnificent are the domes of St Mark's Basilica, towering above the Gothic walls of the Doge's Palace. The sun is definitely sinking into the water, from the city I hear a church bell, goosebumps are on my arms and it's not from the cold.

This bodes well. A few hours ago, I boarded Le Lyrial, one of the four luxury - nay súperluxe - sister ships of parent company Ponant. A quick inspection of my cabin taught me that I will lack little in terms of sleeping comfort: a soft bed (Ponant offers a pillow menu with ample choice for every type of sleeper), a seating area, a shower and, very conveniently, separate toilet, ample storage space and a private balcony. On my dresser I find a personalised welcome letter with a chilled bottle of champagne. It feels like landing in a warm bath.

I leave my cabin and am immediately greeted in the corridor by a housekeeping employee: "Good afternoon Mr Vermeulen", she knows my name right away... I greet back warmly and make my way to the top deck for a refreshing cocktail. Wonderful, mind at zero: the stay at Le Lyrial is all inclusive, no fuss and no worries about the final bill. The Great Enjoyment can begin. A fellow passenger with whom I strike up a conversation remarks: "I've been on many cruises, but what I like about Ponant is the small scale of the ships. No big floating condominiums and far fewer guests on board. You notice it in the personal service, partly because of the ratio of staff to passengers. Embarkation and disembarkation in each port is smooth and organised, allowing us to make the best use of the time in the ports of call". I fully endorse this and suck on my straw for a while longer.

The route from Venice to Athens is historically centred on the Venetian Empire. In the Middle Ages, this empire stretched from the region around Venice in the north, along the coast of present-day Croatia to trading posts in present-day Greece, Turkey and Cyprus. South of Venice, the now Croatian and Montenegrin towns of Rovinj, Hvar, Dubrovnik and Kotor, where we moor this week, were conquered. The Venetians walled these towns and equipped it with the typical architecture that gives towns their distinctive look today: narrow alleys, small hidden palaces and Venetian-Gothic churches. The Venetian empire was prosperous and this is reflected in its cities. My interest in this subject is further fuelled during an interesting lecture on board in the theatre hall.

Prior to the trip, I had already booked some excursions for during the cruise. I was glad of that, as some of the most popular excursions were already fully booked. In Hvar, we drive around the island in authentic Volkswagen beetles, particularly funny. The guide at the Temple of Apollo is very knowledgeable and really brings Greek antiquity to life for me. On board, too, there is plenty to do and plenty organised. In Dubrovnik, for instance, a local male choir comes on board and gives away an unexpectedly dazzling show. Nice thing about Ponant: during a Gala evening, everyone actually dresses well, which really completed these evenings for me (not to mention the mouth-watering dishes with matching quality wines that were served).

My highlight of the trip? Hard to choose. The early morning view from my balcony of the small town of Rovinj, built on a drop-shaped rocky point in the Adriatic, with the little church towering over it. The view from the ski lift of the city of Dubrovnik, with its fully intact fortress walls, old harbour and orange tile roofs. Sea kayaking in the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, in a dazzling fjord landscape of deep blue waters and steep slopes rising from it. Navigating the cruise ship through the Corinth Canal, with sometimes only a few metres on either side of the bow. The impressive ruins around the ancient Temple of Apollo at the Oracle of Delphi. Or was it the meals, all culinary delights prepared by a team of top chefs?

In Athens, I am very happy to have booked another hotel. It gives me the opportunity to visit the Parthenon, do some more shopping in Plaka and enjoy a drink of ouzo on a terrace.